Maple Canyon Ice Climbing
Ice climbing in Maple Canyon began casually in the mid 1980's when a few of the "easy" and obvious lines we climbed by a handful of locals and travelers. Dave Black, author of the Utah Ice Climbing guide climbed several routes and outlines them in his book.
The Golden Age of ice climbing in Maple Canyon occurred in 1994, 1995, 1996 and 1997. A handful of locals converged on the area shortly after it's development and a sport climbing area. Those years had above average snowpack and the ice was EVERYWHERE! We collectively climbed more than 80 first ascents. The route total in the canyon is now well over 100. I anticipate that twenty-or-so more routes will be added before the end of the 2008 season due to the great conditions.
Jared Nielson on the first ascent of "String of Obscenities" WI4+. This route seldom forms, and always late in the season. © Jason Stevens, 2004
In the early 2000's dry tooling was all the rage and Maple saw it's fair share of wild and crazy routes. Utah was in a drought and the conditions showed it, so we started connecting pillars, curtains and columns with sections of black rock. It was A LOT of fun!
Jason Stevens on the first ascent of "Echo Deck" WI3+. The slush just above me in the photo came off in one huge chuck while I was on it and I decked out. The rope, clipped to a screw halfway between me and the ground, absorbed about 60% of the impact. I bounced off the ground and on the way back down my crampon sank square into Jareds thigh. © Jason Stevens, 2001
Jared Nielson on the first ascent of "Rawhide" WI4/M4. The second pitch on this route is a perfect column that forms in a cleft between two overhanging walls. © Jason Stevens, 2000
Jared Nielson on the first ascent of "Ice Hawk" M4. © Jason Stevens, 2000
A climber at the belay station on the much-coveted "Maple Syrup" WI6/M6. © Jason Stevens, 2008
Jared Nielson on another first ascent. © Jason Stevens, 2008
If you have ever thought about climbing ice in Maple this is the year. We have record snowfall and the conditions are better than they have been in over a decade.
If you have any questions email me at jason@cut.net. Thanks! maplecanyon.pdf
Maple Canyon Ice Climbing